1. Cavity Fill. The batts or loose-fill should fill all standard and narrow cavities completely: no gaps top or bottom.
2. Electrical Wiring. Insulation should be split or cut to fit around wiring.
3. Electrical Boxes. Batts should be cut to fit around electrical boxes with a piece placed behind each box.
4. Plumbing. Insulation should be placed between the outside wall and the pipes. If kraft facing is used, it should be in substantial contact with the gypsum board.
5. R-value. The R-value should be marked visibly on the insulation, faced or unfaced. The R-value should meet or exceed the minimum code requirements.
6. Fitting. Batts should friction fit snugly in the cavity. Faced batts can be inset or faced stapled as needed. If inset stapled, batts should not be overly compressed.
For a complete checklist see pages 13-14 of this guide.
7. Requirements: When required, appropriate vapor retarder materials may include kraft facing, continuous polyethylene sheeting, vapor retarder paints and "smart" vapor retarders. (Note: Polyethylene should only be used in very cold climates.)
9. Integrity: Taping vapor retarder facings is not standard practice. Small tears and gaps are not expected to cause moisture issues but can be repaired if desired.
10. Bay Window. The outside wall, extended floor, and ceiling should be insulated.
11. Window and Door Areas. Spaces around windows and doors should be filled with insulation or caulked. Do not overstuff.
12. Band Joists. Insulation with a nonflammable facing should be used for band joists.